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Ascent of Matterhorn Peak in 1995-07

Climber: J Thornton

Others in Party:Judy Christian
Jay Kirby
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:July, 1995
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Matterhorn Peak
    Location:USA-California
    Elevation:12279 ft / 3742 m

Ascent Trip Report

We comfortably bivied in rocks and trees 30 minutes below the snow couloir. We pretty closely followed the North Arete route description per 1993 Ed. of 'Sierra Classics' by Fiddler and Moynier (also similar to 'High Sierra Climbing' 2nd Ed.). We enjoyed the two 4th class approach pitches out of the couloir via running belays, and we enjoyed all the higher pitches. It was 5.6 hardest in the 1990's, but I guess comes in at 5.7 nowadays. Maybe in a few years it'll graduate to a 5.8 grading! I led the middle 5.6 pitch right of the arete in AM shade, and it was chilly, had to keep warming my numb fingers. As I recall, Jay led the last pitch straight up the 5.7 arete (the variation to right of the standard 5.7 wide crack corner) and he felt it had decent pro - it was more exposed and thus more fun? with better position. More-exposed positions with better views of nature always get the juices flowing. We descended the couloir back to our ice axes we had left at base of route, as we had decided we would not need an ax for that descent; you will have to ascertain that on the spot.
Summary Total Data
    Grade/Class:5.6
    Quality:9 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Open Country, Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Rope
    Weather:Cool, Breezy, Clear
good
Ascent Statistics
    Route:North Arete
Descent Statistics



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