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Ascent of Johannesburg Mountain on 2013-09-14

Climber: Sean Albert

Date:Saturday, September 14, 2013
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Peak:Johannesburg Mountain
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:7300 ft / 2225 m

Ascent Trip Report

SE arete attempt. On Friday morning Dave, Mark, Jarred and I met at Dave's house to attempt Johannesburg SE arete, approaching via the West ridge with a traverse under the South side of the mountain. After coffee in Darrington we parked at the hairpin turn on the Cascade River Rd., hiked up the road to 1800ft. and headed into the woods. We often found game trails on the ridge to make the terrain easier. Also found some flagging, someone else has been this way at some point. We set up our camp at a small tarn on the far West ridge at 5300 ft., the only water around. Great views of Eldorado across the valley. Saturday night we saw a fire and a bunch of headlamps on the ridge below the Eldorado summit, it was still burning on Sunday morning.

Day 2. Our approach was across a long steep meadow to a notch, then across another rocky basin to gain our ridge. We left camp at 6am and didn't make the start of the route until 10am. LOTS or side hilling on steep vegetation. We scrambled over a few gendarms that didn't look like they would go, but there was always a way. We roped up for three pitches of easy climbing with one 15 foot step at mid low to mid 5th class, and made it up to around 7300 ft. and a point where we could see more of the route. Unfortunately, lots more to go to gain the East ridge, plus the traverse to the summit. It was 3pm at this point, and we decided we just didn't have the time to continue, wanting to get off the route by dark. We down protected one pitch and set up one double 60 M rap off two small trees to bypass the hardest climbing. We made it down to the start of the route around 7pm and continued through the dark back to camp. Made camp about 1am, a long day.

Day 3. Hiked out avoiding all the extreme weather the Sound was having at the same time. Burgers and beers a Mondo and ice cream at Cascadian Farms. Maybe next year with a closer camp...
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:6300 ft / 1920 m
    Total Elevation Loss:600 ft / 182 m
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:6300 ft / 1920 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 5700 ft / 1738 m; Extra: 600 ft / 182m
    Loss on way in:600 ft / 182 m
    Route:SE arete
    Start Trailhead:1600 ft / 487 m
Descent Statistics



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