Ascent of Glacier Peak on 2013-07-06

Climber: Noel Howe

Date:Saturday, July 6, 2013
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Glacier Peak
    Elevation:10520 ft / 3206 m

Ascent Trip Report

3 day, 28 miles, 9,400 feet, Mounties trip led by Bill, with Craig S. and me as assistant leaders. Went via the White Chuck Glacier and Cool Glacier Route.

Day 1 we started early and made camp at 6,600' in the flats just west of the remnants of the White Chuck Glacier. Camp was on snow with a couple of rock/dirt areas for a kitchen area and for putting packs/gear on. We had a snow-melt pool for water and no views of Glacier Peak due to clouds.

Day 2 we got up at 1am to stars (and saw the dark mass of Glacier Peak for the first time) and started hiking at 2am. We made it to Glacier Gap in an hour or so (running water at Glacier Gap). We continued on traveling on alternating snow (hard enough to merit crampons) and dirt. The sun started coming up when we were on the upper Suiattle Glacier and we had SPECTACULAR views of many surrounding peaks including Bonanza, Maude, 7 Fingered Jack, and Fernow. We roped-up right before getting onto the Cool Glacier as we were making our way around Disappointment Peak. There were a few crevasses (a couple big'uns) that we easily made our way around. Then back onto dirt when we got to the ridge line, followed by 500 feet of moderately steep snow to the summit. Summited around 7am. Back to camp at about 10am and then lounged-around camp the rest of the day.

Day 3 we started at 0-dark-30 and blazed back to the cars in about 6.5 hours. Beverages and chips at the TH and then onto a breakfast spot in Arlington.

A great trip with a solid, fun team.
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