Ascent of Kharchakund on 1980-05-29

Climber: Yoshitaka Tanimura

Date:Thursday, May 29, 1980
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Elevation:21693 ft / 6612 m

Ascent Trip Report

I (Yoshitaka Tanimura) climbed Kharchakund from the west ridge (a side ridge of the north ridge) with Mr. Toshiharu Hashimoto from Gangotri village. We were the first summiteers of the mountain. We established base camp at Tappoban (4200m) on April 29, 1980. Then we carried our equipment and food by ourselves to establish advanced BC at the place called Sundaruban (4500m) located at the south side of the junction between Kirti Bamak and Gangorei Glacier till May 13th. We built Camp 1 on 4900m on the Ganohim mamak below the north side of the west ride of the Kharchakund on May 14th. Our rout was taken along the West ridge. We walked up snow slope on the north side of the west ride and established C2 on the ridge (5300m). The ridge was covered by ice and snow and we could relatively easily reach to the nice camp cite at 6000m on May 24th. Form C3, we went down on the south side of West ride, then climbed shellac area to climb up the col on the north ride. After several hours of walking we could reach the col (6250m) by May 28th. On May 29th, Hashimoto and I attacked to the summit from C3. Over the col on north ride, there was a steep glacier and we had to spent two hours to establish a route. But, after that we could walked to the top. We reached top by noon. On 30th, Sueo Miyahara, Kaoru Ueno, Yoshiki Yamanaka and Masao Mizuno reached the top from C3. All member of our party reached the summit.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:11811 ft / 3599 m
    Quality:8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb, Ice Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Tent Camp, Bivouac
    Nights Spent:42 nights away from roads
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:11811 ft / 3599 m
    Route:West ridge -> north ridge
    Start Trailhead:Gangotri  9882 ft / 3012 m
    Time:33 Days 
Descent Statistics
    Time:9 Days 

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