Ascent of Breithorn-Central Summit on 2012-08-10

Climber: Caj Svensson

Others in Party:Eva
Date:Friday, August 10, 2012
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Breithorn-Central Summit
    Elevation:13645 ft / 4158 m

Ascent Trip Report

Day 2: Breakfast at 5 in the Rifugio Guide del Cervino hut and left at 6 am, almost an alpine start. Hiked up the upper ski slopes w/o crampons to the Breithorn plateau. Geared up with crampons, axe and two ropes; Eva and Per on one rope, and Caj and Josef on their own. Followed the track East, under Breithorn, and then South up the snow, between B. Central and B. East. Quite steep ascent on snow to the B. ridge. Mixed climbing in three distinct steps to the Breithorn Central summit. The last part to the summit on snow. A little stop before hiking West, to the saddle between B. and B. Central. Followed the track back down to where we passed, in the early morning. Continued East, below the Rossi and Volante Bivouac, to the foot of Pollux, before descending to the Val d'Ayas hut. Beer and some rest before dinner. The good old Dane, Kenn, is still around.
Very nice day with a few clouds, no wind and a nice sun. Good first time experience of mixed climbing.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:2864 ft / 872 m
    Total Elevation Loss:3087 ft / 940 m
    Round-Trip Distance:7.3 mi / 11.7 km
    Route Conditions:
Rock Climb, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb, Ice Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Guide, Hut Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:2497 ft / 761 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 2267 ft / 690 m; Extra: 230 ft / 70m
    Loss on way in:230 ft / 70 m
    Distance:3.7 mi / 6 km
    Start Trailhead:Testa Grigia Guide hut  11378 ft / 3468 m
    Time:5 Hours 35 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:2857 ft / 870 m
        Loss Breakdown:Net: 2490 ft / 758 m; Extra: 367 ft / 111m
    Gain on way out:367 ft / 111 m
    Distance:3.5 mi / 5.7 km
    End Trailhead:Val d'Ayas Guide hut  11155 ft / 3400 m
    Time:3 Hours 4 Minutes
Ascent Part of Trip: Frontier Ridge 2012 (5 nights total away from roads)

Complete Trip Sequence:
1Breithorn2012-08-092244 ft / 684 m
2Breithorn-Central Summit2012-08-102864 ft / 873 m
3Castor2012-08-112896 ft / 883 m
4Liskamm-West Summit2012-08-12 1 
5Liskamm2012-08-12 24491 ft / 1369 m
6Signalkuppe2012-08-12 3 
7Zumsteinspitze2012-08-13 1 
8Grenzgipfel2012-08-13 2 
9Monte Rosa2012-08-13 32050 ft / 625 m
10Nordend2012-08-13 4 
Total Trip Gain: 14545 ft / 4434 m    Total Trip Loss: 16652 ft / 5076 m
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Caj Svensson
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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