Ascent of Mount Warren on 2012-09-08

Climber: William Musser

Others in Party:Karen Musser
Date:Saturday, September 8, 2012
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Mount Warren
    Elevation:13307 ft / 4055 m

Ascent Trip Report

Rushed from work and flew from Florida to CO and drove up to 10,500 feet plus and camped in our car to acclimate (at the Echo Lake CG). We threw up a tent in the dark but we misjudged how cool it would be from the weather report and the cold drove us to our car. Awoke at dawn to a car completely frozen solid with ice, dethawed, and drove up to Summit Lake parked and acclimated a little longer and eat breakfast in the car. This was my first 14er trip since my heart condition and the doctor said no more cheating with Diomox. I was curious to see how fast I could acclimate without out. Just a fast weekend outing to enjoy two fourteeners and see if Karen could tag her first 14er.

We Touched the water at Summit Lake EL 12,830 to ensure a starting elevation, then we left car at 7:30 AM. It was 26F outside the car. We had all day to try to feel good and get Evans and did not want to get it too easily so we descided to play around at 13k for awhile. From the Summit Lake saddle at elevation 12,876, we descended to 12,800 feet using the Chicago Lakes Trail to the NW steeper slopes of Mount Warren. We wanted to stay off the protected tundra area so we found a place where we could get on some rock and scramble the backside. Karen felt her breathing and pulse way up so I left her at the ridge spying a group of mountain goats that had not seen us sneak up the steep side. As she awaited/acclimated at 13,100, I climbed the remaining ridge to the peak and then saw another peak nearby that looked even taller. I traveled over and climbed up the NE peak on the USGS but was surprised to verify that sure enough the first nub - the 13,307 rounded peak is higher than the rock outcropping at around 13,300 feet. I worked back and tagged the true summit one more time and realized I added another 0.4 mile to my acclimation test and then climbed back to Karen through the rocks. We scrambled back to the saddle at Lake Summit Pass.

Because of all the additional gain to go around to the backside and make it a class 2+ to 3 scramble our first use of lungs off the airplane gave us:

Bill - 1.8 miles and 620 feet of total gain
Karen- 0.8 miles and 346 feet of total gain

Then after, only 12 hours of landing in Denver from FL it was off to traverse the cirque above and do Spaulding and then Mount Evans. So far altitude sickness was at bay.

Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:620 ft / 188 m
    Total Elevation Loss:574 ft / 174 m
    Round-Trip Distance:1.8 mi / 2.9 km
    Grade/Class:1,2, and 3
    Quality:5 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Open Country, Scramble
    Weather:Cool, Calm, Clear
Perfect September day
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:553 ft / 168 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 477 ft / 145 m; Extra: 76 ft / 23m
    Loss on way in:76 ft / 23 m
    Distance:0.8 mi / 1.3 km
    Route:Spalding-to Chicago Lakes to scramble
    Start Trailhead:Summit Lake Edge  12830 ft / 3910 m
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:498 ft / 151 m
        Loss Breakdown:Net: 431 ft / 131 m; Extra: 67 ft / 20m
    Gain on way out:67 ft / 20 m
    Distance:1 mi / 1.6 km
    Route:ridge crest back to saddle
    End Trailhead:Summit Lake Pass  12876 ft / 3924 m
Ascent Part of Trip: Evans-Bierstadt

Complete Trip Sequence:
1Mount Warren2012-09-08 a620 ft / 189 m
2Mount Spalding2012-09-08 b966 ft / 294 m
3Mount Evans2012-09-08 c824 ft / 251 m
4Mount Bierstadt2012-09-092939 ft / 896 m
Total Trip Gain: 5349 ft / 1630 m    Total Trip Loss: 5169 ft / 1576 m

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