Ascent of Glacier Peak on 2012-09-02

Climber: Sean Albert

Date:Sunday, September 2, 2012
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Glacier Peak
    Elevation:10520 ft / 3206 m

Ascent Trip Report

The road opened, so Patty, the dogs and I decided to do Glacier after reading a bunch of successful trip reports from people we know. This would be dogs first glacier travel using their ghetto homemade harnesses.

The road to the T.H. was amazing, don't think I hit one pothole, and the North Fork trail was one of the best I've been on all year, not one log to step over the whole way. I guess the horse folks make that happen. Left the T.H. at 8:30 am. Huge trees and giant skunk cabbage leaves made the flat 5.4 miles to Makinaw shelter more enjoyable. Took us about two hours to get to the shelter, about 1000 ft. gain.

The trail gets steeper here, climbing to a juntion with the PCT, and then a traverse to White Pass. A sign marks the Foam Creek trail, a longish traverse over many drainages to a short open rocky/sandy drainage with cairns marking the way to a pass with the first views of the peak. A climbers trail starting to the right traverses left around the slopes to pass overlooking the basin.

Drop down into the upper basin and traverse right to the notch. Once through the notch there is a large flat area overlooks what's left of the White Chuck glacier. We camped next to a large boulder. Arrived at camp around 4:30 pm.

Day two we started moving around 6:30 am, dropped down onto the moonscape remnants of the White Chuck and headed for Glacier Gap, stay high and to the right, rather than going low and following the valley floor, to just under the cliff bands with white streaks.

At Glacier Gap turn left up the snow slope rather than gaining the ridge, at the pass the ridge run is obvious. Follow the trail until the ridge becomes to blocky to walk on, hop on the snow and follow the ridge. We saw some rocks falling of Disappointment Peak, so we stayed we below the steep sides. We roped up just below the first gap through to the Cool Glacier. Some very melow snow bridges dumped us onto the main glacier. We stayed on the left side of the glacier and slowly arked right to meet the saddle between the summit and Disappointment Peak.

We unropped and headed up the pumice ridge which led us to the final broad open gully to the summit.

Made the top at 12:00, doggy ropped glacier travel was a liitle slow.

Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:9420 ft / 2871 m
    Total Elevation Loss:1000 ft / 304 m
    Nights Spent:2 nights away from roads
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:9420 ft / 2871 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 8420 ft / 2566 m; Extra: 1000 ft / 304m
    Loss on way in:1000 ft / 304 m
    Route:Cool Glacier
    Start Trailhead:2100 ft / 640 m
Descent Statistics

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