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Ascent of Mount Tasman on 2008-03-24

Climber: Mark Vinar

Others in Party:Miles Vinar
Date:Monday, March 24, 2008
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Tasman
    Location:New Zealand
    Elevation:11473 ft / 3496 m

Ascent Trip Report

Long and difficult route to Marcel Col (up extreme right of route with high rockfall hazard area, leading to short but steep ice traverse and then the upper glacier with extensive and often very wide crevasse formation - only reached col because of a single remaining thin crevasse bridge. Bivvied overnight at Marcel Col - left at 0200 hrs. Most of early climb straigthforward but difficult traverse of the final ridge/north shoulder - unable to walk ridge line due to it being a knife edge consisting of crappy crumbly ice on one side and soft/weak dry snow on other side. Long process to reach the summit - leapfrogged each other on opposite sides of ridge with rope over ridgeline as protection. Long trip back to pioneer hut after descent via above, with similar descent in moonless dark and convoluted return over extensively crevassed Upper Fox glacier.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:2851 ft / 868 m
    Total Elevation Loss:4353 ft / 1325 m
    Route Conditions:
Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb, Ice Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Hut Camp, Tent Camp
    Weather:Cool, Breezy, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:2523 ft / 769 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 1867 ft / 569 m; Extra: 656 ft / 199m
    Loss on way in:656 ft / 199 m
    Route:via Ledenfeld
    Start Trailhead:Marcel Col  9606 ft / 2927 m
    Time:8 Hours 
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:3697 ft / 1126 m
        Loss Breakdown:Net: 3369 ft / 1026 m; Extra: 328 ft / 99m
    Gain on way out:328 ft / 99 m
    Route:as above plus marcel col to hut
    End Trailhead:Pioneer Hut  8104 ft / 2470 m
    Time:16 Hours 
Ascent Part of Trip:

Complete Trip Sequence:
OrderPeak/PointDateGain
1Mount Tasman2008-03-242851 ft / 869 m
Total Trip Gain: 2851 ft / 869 m    Total Trip Loss: 4353 ft / 1327 m



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