Ascent of Sherpa Peak on 2012-07-24

Climber: Sean Albert

Date:Tuesday, July 24, 2012
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Sherpa Peak
    Elevation:8605 ft / 2622 m

Ascent Trip Report

Sherpa Rock (Balanced Rock) was the ultimate goal of our trip, party of five, but I was also interested in getting up to the true summit, would be 17/100 on the Bulger list for me.

We left Ingalls Lake/Longs Pass TH at 6:15am after a car bivy. Crossed over Longs Pass, dropped down to Ingalls Creek (which was much easier to ford than on Argonaut a week earlier) via a log over the creek. Took a right on the the Ingalls Creek trail and headed East towards the large meadow (the meadow after the C.C. turnoff for Stuart meadow). Traversed Easterly across the meadow to around 5100ft. to cross the stream below a waterfall. Continued an ascending traverse Easterly through sparsely forested terrain to reach the large main gully below Sherpa at around 6000ft. We dropped our camping gear and headed for the summit. Took a right to follow a NNW trending gully at about 7000 ft. to gain the East ridge. Climbed the ridge until the climbing looked harder than 4th class, at this point an exposed ramp on the North face leads to a chimney that gains the ridge below the balanced rock and the true Sherpa summit. We set up a hand line on the ramp, as a fall here would be bad. We scrambled up the base of the balanced rock, one exposed move to gain a large flat rock below the climbing route on the rock(s). I stood on a small pile of rocks (man made) while James climbed onto my shoulders to make the first move to gain the ledge. A little aid climbing using the first bolt (1/4 inch, old and rusty) above the ledge to gain the easier climbing to the top. The rest of us (3) prusiked up to the ledge and use the same bolt to gain the top. We backed up the bolt on top with a cordelette around the top edge/pointy feature in order to rap off safely. We then headed for the true summit and then back to camp. Didn't get off the true summit until 7 pm so we spent a little while boulder hopping in the dark under the stars. A very cool rock to climb, not climbed very often. An old license plate from the 40's is curled up into a sort of summit register on top, nothing inside it though.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:7305 ft / 2226 m
    Total Elevation Loss:7305 ft / 2226 m
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:5805 ft / 1769 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 4305 ft / 1312 m; Extra: 1500 ft / 457m
    Loss on way in:1500 ft / 457 m
    Route:South Route
    Start Trailhead:4300 ft / 1310 m
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:5805 ft / 1769 m
        Loss Breakdown:Net: 4305 ft / 1312 m; Extra: 1500 ft / 457m
    Gain on way out:1500 ft / 457 m
    End Trailhead:4300 ft / 1310 m

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