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Ascent of Bugaboo Spire on 1980-08-11

Climber: Greg Bramlet

Others in Party:Three
Date:Monday, August 11, 1980
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Bugaboo Spire
    Location:Canada-British Columbia
    Elevation:10512 ft / 3204 m

Ascent Trip Report

Purcell Mountains, East Kootenay
438 m (1,437 ft)
50°44'45?N 116°47'18?W50.74583°N 116.78833°WCoordinates: 50°44'45?N 116°47'18?W50.74583°N 116.78833°W
NTS 82K/10
Granite
1916 Conrad Kain; A. MacCarthy, E. MacCarthy

Perhaps the most impressive peak in the Bugaboos, Bugaboo Spire sits between the Vowell and Crescent glaciers, just under 2 km West of the ACC's Conrad Kain hut. It has some of the most spectacular alpine climbing in Canada.
The Spire was first climbed by Conrad Kain in 1916,

Kain Route (PD+, 5.6) This route tackles the left-hand skyline of the east face as is commonly used as the descent route for all routes on the spire. After gaining the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col, 3rd class scrambling starts up the ridge following trails and cairns. As height is gained, the route sticks close to the ridge-crest but is always on the Kain Hut basin side of the peak. After a while, some low-5th-class chimneys are reached with a wide, flat ledge at the base. These are scaled in one long (~60m) pitch or two to access the summit. Lots of very intense exposure when negotiating the gendarme. Be extra careful on the descent rappels in order to regain the ridge.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:8317 ft / 2535 m
    Total Elevation Loss:92 ft / 28 m
    Grade/Class:5.6 PD+
    Route Conditions:
Rock Climb, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Hut Camp
    Weather:Snowing, Cold, Breezy, Partly Cloudy
snow flurries on summit
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:8317 ft / 2535 m
    Route:Kain Route-Gendarme
    Start Trailhead:Conrad Kain Hut  2195 ft / 669 m
    Time:6 Hours 
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:92 ft / 28 m
    Route:same
    End Trailhead:Summit  10420 ft / 3176 m



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