Ascent of Bugaboo Spire on 1980-08-11| Others in Party: | Three
| | Date: | Monday, August 11, 1980 | | Ascent Type: | Successful Summit Attained | | Peak: | Bugaboo Spire | | Location: | Canada-British Columbia | | Elevation: | 10512 ft / 3204 m |
Ascent Trip ReportPurcell Mountains, East Kootenay
438 m (1,437 ft)
50°44'45?N 116°47'18?W50.74583°N 116.78833°WCoordinates: 50°44'45?N 116°47'18?W50.74583°N 116.78833°W
NTS 82K/10
Granite
1916 Conrad Kain; A. MacCarthy, E. MacCarthy
Perhaps the most impressive peak in the Bugaboos, Bugaboo Spire sits between the Vowell and Crescent glaciers, just under 2 km West of the ACC's Conrad Kain hut. It has some of the most spectacular alpine climbing in Canada.
The Spire was first climbed by Conrad Kain in 1916,
Kain Route (PD+, 5.6) This route tackles the left-hand skyline of the east face as is commonly used as the descent route for all routes on the spire. After gaining the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col, 3rd class scrambling starts up the ridge following trails and cairns. As height is gained, the route sticks close to the ridge-crest but is always on the Kain Hut basin side of the peak. After a while, some low-5th-class chimneys are reached with a wide, flat ledge at the base. These are scaled in one long (~60m) pitch or two to access the summit. Lots of very intense exposure when negotiating the gendarme. Be extra careful on the descent rappels in order to regain the ridge. |
| Summary Total Data | | Total Elevation Gain: | 8317 ft / 2535 m | | Total Elevation Loss: | 92 ft / 28 m | | Grade/Class: | 5.6 PD+ | | Route Conditions: | Rock Climb, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb | | Gear Used: | Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Hut Camp | | Weather: | Snowing, Cold, Breezy, Partly Cloudy
snow flurries on summit | | Ascent Statistics | | Gain on way in: | 8317 ft / 2535 m | | Route: | Kain Route-Gendarme | | Start Trailhead: | Conrad Kain Hut 2195 ft / 669 m | | Time: | 6 Hours | | Descent Statistics | | Loss on way out: | 92 ft / 28 m | | Route: | same | | End Trailhead: | Summit 10420 ft / 3176 m |
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