Ascent of Matterhorn on 1983-08-15

Climber: Peter Bellarby

Date:Monday, August 15, 1983
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Elevation:14692 ft / 4478 m

Ascent Trip Report

As part of Mountain Ventures intermediate alpine training course. With Lew hardy (guide) and Anne Jago. We set off at 05:00 from Hörnlihütte for the Hörnli ridge of the Matterhorn. We climbed very fast and from being about the last party out ended up being the fourth rope on the summit. There is a large amount of easy climbing, with some false trails. There are some iron rings for belaying (not many). There are fixed ropes above the shoulder which allow pitches of III to be avoided. At the top of the fixed ropes it was necessary to put on crampons in a very awkward and confined spot. The last part was snow/ice. The summit was reached at 09:45 and has a narrow snow/ice crest. Ascent televised from a helicopter for German television. Descent same way reaching the hut at 15:45. A wonderful climb done in perfect weather.
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