Ascent of Alphubel on 1983-08-10

Climber: Peter Bellarby

Date:Wednesday, August 10, 1983
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
    Elevation:13123 ft / 3999 m

Ascent Trip Report

With Mountain Ventures party. From Täsch Hütte. It rained a bit in the night, which we found as fresh snow on the mountain high up. Left hut at 04:45 for Alphubel via Rotgrat route. Anne Jago and I were on Lew Hardy's rope. We followed the Wissgrat and then the Rotgrat. Mostly it was fairly easy rock and we moved together. There were two ice sections requiring crampons. Above this the rocks are very steep and the English language guide book suggests making a rising right traverse into a steep couloir. However, this has stonefall danger, so we kept out of the couloir as suggested by a new French language book of 100 best climbs. The final section was very steep ice 60° climbed with front pointing and using ice scree as belay half way up. As weather worsened – cloudy, hailing or snowing – we did not seek the actual top which is difficult to locate in mist. In any case we had to be sure of getting down the correct way. Difficult descent moves on steep ice before we found the south east ridge. We went down to the Alphubel Joch with small cornices and bergschrunds to keep us on our toes. Then down the northern branch of the Alphubel Gletcher. Täsch Hütte was reached at 19:00.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:13123 ft / 3999 m
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:13123 ft / 3999 m
    Start Trailhead:0 ft / 0 m
Descent Statistics

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