Ascent of Mamie Peak on 2022-04-20

Climber: John Morrow

Other People:Solo Ascent
Only Party on Mountain
Date:Wednesday, April 20, 2022
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mamie Peak
    Elevation:6917 ft / 2108 m

Ascent Trip Report

A very remote peak. Three day backpack loop. BMT to camp 1 on the rim of West Rim Death Hollow. Ascended a pure SE sloping Buttress of solid Navajo sandstone. Excellent friction climbing with sustained Class 3 for 450 vertical feet. Could not avoid one or two Class 4 moves, but likely possible. Climbing was too enjoyable to look for easier. This is the buttress to the climbers left of a major Class 2 gully visible everywhere from the SE. I descended the same with a varying move or two climbers left.
The whole peak would be Class 1 if via the north. Great way to start a backpack morning. Approach via the Death Hollow Rim on stone and one will avoid crypto. I left the rim and dropped 75 vertical feet into the canyon for ease of travel on slickrock.
Summary Total Data
    Route:SE Buttress
    Grade/Class:Cl 3/4
    Quality:9 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Open Country, Scramble, Exposed Scramble
    Gear Used:
Tent Camp
Ascent Part of Trip: BMT-Bowington-River Loop (2 nights total away from roads)

Complete Trip Sequence:
1Mamie Peak2022-04-20 a 
2South Slickrock Saddle Bench2022-04-20 b 

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