Ascent of Mount Olympus on 2011-07-03

Climber: Jeff Crow

Others in Party:Dustin Shinego
Kira Misura
Date:Sunday, July 3, 2011
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:4x4 Vehicle
Peak:Mount Olympus
    Elevation:7969 ft / 2428 m

Ascent Trip Report

Left Seattle against our better judgement, but armed with a rare favorable weather forcast for the 4th of July weekend. 1 ferry ride, 5'ish hours driving time to the Hoh River Trailhead, & stop @ the WIC in Port Angeles, we arrived at the TH. Hit the trail at around 3pm, hiking to the Hoh Guard Station and camping on the "sandbar" where we enjoyed clear skies, & nice evening weather. Day 2 invovled a big push after a late start from the Ranger station to Glacier Meadows, under bright blue skies. Start seeing snow around 3000', just above Elk Lake. We encountered fresh bear tracks there & shortly encountered a large, healthy, black bear that was using the trail & didn't want to travel off of it. After a few minutes of stalemate we encouraged the bear to move along in front of us to the avalanche area handline. At this point the bear climbed up and away from the trail onto the constant snow. Glacier Meadows was reached shortly and there was still 3'-5' of snow at the campground, no rangers at the yurt.
330 am start was pushed back to 530 because of the weather, drizzle cleared as we hit the Blue Glacier. Snow was deep and there were very few open crevasses. Next we ascended the Snow Dome and then decided for an attempt up the direct, "4th Of July Route", crossing several crevasses via snowbridge to the saddle just below West Peak. We dropped glacier gear and went up to the ledges that were still an icy mess, Kira & I were in the process of turning around when Dustin found a way up the ice to the summit. He then threw down a rope and set up a belay. Kira & I followed up an easy top-roped rock crack to the summit, (40-50'). We enjoyed bright sunshine calm winds and a very waterlogged summit register at the summit. We spend 45 minutes to an hour at the summit and retraced our very direct route down to Snow Dome, and then across to the former Cal-Tech Research Station. We could see the Pacific to the west, San Juan and Vancouver Island North and great views of the Bailey Range east, Clouds to the south. Back to camp for food, rest and an early start to 17+ mile hike out....We were the first team to summit in 2011, Thanks to Dustin's push up the sketchy, icy ledges!
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:15365 ft / 4683 m
    Total Elevation Loss:7969 ft / 2428 m
    Quality:8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Rock Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Rope, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:3 nights away from roads
    Weather:Drizzle, Pleasant, Calm, Partly Cloudy
Drizzle clearing to partly cloudy
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:15365 ft / 4683 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 7396 ft / 2254 m; Extra: 7969 ft / 2428m
    Loss on way in:7969 ft / 2428 m
    Distance:24 mi / 38.6 km
    Route:Hoh River Trail
    Start Trailhead:Hoh River Trailhead, ONP  573 ft / 174 m
    Time:3 Days 
Descent Statistics
    Time:1 Days 

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