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Ascent of Titlis on 2022-01-16

Climber: Richard Harbron

Date:Sunday, January 16, 2022
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Titlis
    Location:Switzerland
    Elevation:10623 ft / 3237 m

Ascent Trip Report

After a good run of successful ascents I was due a day of farce at some point. I'd originally intended to climb up from Engelberg to Trübsee then take the cable car up to Klein Titlis. After reaching Gerschnialp I plodded through the snow up towards Rosswald then met one of the ski centre staff who told me the climb up to Trübsee was dangerous and I should take the cable car instead. Following his advice, I walked back to the car car station at Gerschni, but there were no gondolas running from there, so I needed to go all the way back down to Engelberg.

After taking the cable car all the way up to Klein Titlis I then climbed to the main summit. The route follows the edge of the S face and narrowly avoids the glacier. The snow was very icy, but otherwise the going was easy. Near the top, there is a narrow section, followed by a rock band of about 3 m. I followed some tracks in the snow that led to the left, avoiding the rock band completely. This was quite close to the NE face and did not seem safe at all. The summit is marked by a trig point tripod, a cairn and an orientation board. There was one other walker on the summit and I met a group of 3 skiers just below. Otherwise it was very quiet (the ski pistes were crowded though). It was extremely cold, so I didn't wait around for long. I managed to find an easy route back down through the rock band that was much safer, then followed my ascent route back to Klein Titlis.

Just after I left the summit, I looked back to see the other walker (who was initially following right behind me) struggling to downclimb the route I'd originally taken to avoid the rock band on the way up. From where I was standing, it looked extremely dangerous as he had no ice axe or crampons. I was convinced he would fall to his death if he slipped, but thankfully he managed to get down to safer ground. Titlis is an easy climb, but you need the right gear!
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:1666 ft / 507 m
    Total Elevation Loss:984 ft / 299 m
    Grade/Class:F-
    Route Conditions:
Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Ski Poles
    Weather:Frigid, Windy, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:1666 ft / 507 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 682 ft / 207 m; Extra: 984 ft / 299m
    Loss on way in:984 ft / 299 m
    Start Trailhead:9941 ft / 3030 m
Descent Statistics



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