Ascent of Gannett Peak on 2021-08-17

Climber: Harvey Sal

Other People:Solo Ascent
Only Party on Mountain
Date:Tuesday, August 17, 2021
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Gannett Peak
    Elevation:13804 ft / 4207 m

Ascent Trip Report

4 day solo project on Gannett was a success. Took the long Glacier trail approach. Over 50 miles return.

Day 1: TH to Glacier Trail-Downs Fork intersection.
Day 2: Intersection to upper base camp.
Day 3: Summit.
Day 4: Upper base camp to Trailhead (12hrs 30 mins).

The crux at the moment is the section above the bergschrund. It's all icey requiring ice gear. I found the snow bridge crossing the schrund to be soft and narrow, so I avoided it, backtracked and went for the fixed rope that was on the rock wall to the right of the schrund. I used the rock to climb up and around the ice. Class 3/4 climbing with maybe a few Class 5 moves.

On the descent same thing. Hugged the rock all the way down to the fixed rope avoiding the ice. I had two ice axes but still felt uncomfortable using them to come down given the hard ice conditions.

When coming in from TH to Gannett on the glacier trail, there is a bridge to cross the river if you continue about half a mile down the Downs Fork (around the 16 or 17 mile point) There is no sign saying there is a bridge! So many end up fording the river which is what I did. There is a sign on the other side when you return but none when approaching Gannett.

Summary Total Data
Ascent Statistics
    Route:Glacier Trail
    Start Trailhead:Glacier Trail TH  
Descent Statistics

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