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Ascent of Mount Logan on 2021-07-31

Climber: Rob Basanta

Date:Saturday, July 31, 2021
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Peak:Mount Logan
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:7800 ft / 2377 m

Ascent Trip Report

3 day trip trying for Mt. Logan via the Freemont glacier. Camped around ~5,800 feet just shy of park creek pass with abundant flowing water available. Trail is brushy starting near the thunder basin area, but not unmanageable. Made it to around 7,800 feet on the summit attempt, the Freemont is in very rough shape this year. It has a significant amount of exposed blue ice that we were not equipped to safely ascend/descend, so we turned around at this point. The smallest section of blue ice was conveniently littered with pretty significant rock fall, so it was not the most intriguing option. Others who are more bold may be able to still give it a go, but if I were to do it again this year, I'd probably want two axes and a few ice screws, which I would not want to carry on that approach.

Other than not summiting it is a gorgeous area and you are really out there in the heart of the north cascades so that alone is worth the approach for me.

The bugs are pretty intense most of the way including mosquitos and black flies, bring repellant, long clothes, head nets, etc.
Summary Total Data
    Route:Freemont Glacier
    Trailhead:Thunder Creek TH  
    Quality:5 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Bushwhack, Stream Ford, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:3 nights away from roads



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