Ascent of Unanswered Prayers Peak on 2021-07-31

Climber: Ben Still

Date:Saturday, July 31, 2021
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Unanswered Prayers Peak
    Elevation:5500 ft / 1676 m

Ascent Trip Report

The third peak of our Eagle Glacier adventure. See previous report on Peak 5450 and Mount Adolph Knopf.

After climbing Mount Adolph Knopf Matt, Dylan and I set out for Peak 5550 at 4pm. Our objective was the north ridge, a beautiful granite outcrop that looked really fun. We traversed across the glacier bowl and started up steep snow slopes to gain the col. the last bit was 40+ degrees, we were happy we had put our crampons on below as the snow was not that soft on this north facing shaded slope. We scrambled up the granite until we reached the steep part of the ridge. Here Matt took the lead and we simul climbed up a nice 5.4 section of climbing and continued up 4th class rock with a couple of 5.0 moves until we reached the summit!. Another awesome peak in this rugged area. No evidence of a previous ascent on this peak either so we dubbed this "Unanswered Prayers Peak" since prayers are only answered if you work hard and have a little or a lot of luck. We downclimbed the route of ascent with one rappel at the 5.4 section. We made quick work of the snow and were back at camp in no time. What an epic trip!

We spent a second night at our camp and woke up and hiked out the Eagle Glacier. I was amazed how far it has receded at its terminus, a huge canyon has opened up for nearly a half mile before the lake. We packrafted across the lakes and hiked out to the road on the Eagle Glacier trail.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:1900 ft / 578 m
    Total Elevation Loss:6200 ft / 1889 m
    Round-Trip Distance:19.3 mi / 31.1 km
    Route Conditions:
Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Tent Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:1300 ft / 396 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 1200 ft / 366 m; Extra: 100 ft / 30m
    Loss on way in:100 ft / 30 m
    Distance:1.3 mi / 2.1 km
    Start Trailhead:4300 ft / 1310 m
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:6100 ft / 1859 m
        Loss Breakdown:Net: 5500 ft / 1676 m; Extra: 600 ft / 182m
    Gain on way out:600 ft / 182 m
    Distance:18 mi / 29 km
    End Trailhead:0 ft / 0 m
Ascent Part of Trip: Knopf (2 nights total away from roads)

Complete Trip Sequence:
1Cowee Peak2021-07-301100 ft / 335 m
2Mount Adolph Knopf2021-07-312900 ft / 884 m
3Unanswered Prayers Peak2021-07-311900 ft / 579 m
Total Trip Gain: 5900 ft / 1798 m    Total Trip Loss: 10200 ft / 3109 m

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