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Ascent of Little Tahoma on 2021-06-20

Climber: Madolyn Moritz

Date:Sunday, June 20, 2021
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Little Tahoma
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:11138 ft / 3394 m

Ascent Trip Report

Had a lovely solstice climb of Little Tahoma! Party of two, we camped at Meany Crest and got the ~deluxe~ campsite up there. There was a pair of skiers who bivyed on the other side of it who we saw the next day coming up to the summit as we came down. Also ran into a team of two who came from the Paradise side, but besides them we were alone on this sunny weekend.

The Fryingpan was in great shape, we roped up and began right at sunrise and easily made it to the notch. The climb up at the top of the Whitman Glacier was steep but smoothing sailing. There appeared to be one crack near the top opening which we assumed was a bergschrund. There was a little bit of BS involved in the upper section of the snow as it transitioned to rock. There was an awkward single class 4 move to get onto the rock after the steep snow, and then just some intermittent snow and rock transitions before the final scramble. Nothing too hard to negotiate.

The rock quality and scramble were far better than we had thought, after basically only hearing nightmare stories about just how terrible Little T was. Maybe our expectations were just so low that anything impressed us, but truly it was just fine. We set up a quick belay since we had the glacier rope for the traverse and final climb on the summit block, but it was very easy to do in our mountaineering boots and next time I personally wouldn't feel the need for a belay. Besides this final scramble, the rest was easy and relatively solid class 2, so coming down was quick. We plunge stepped down the steep snow and the skiers passed us on the Fryingpan. Next time I'll bring my touring setup! A quick trip back to camp, after which we packed up. Glissaded a little down to Summerland, then hiked out.

Of note - there was a snow gulley going up to Summerland that looked excellent for a glissade, but we could hear the creek raging below and there were a few holes open where it looked like folks had some close calls. We stuck to the far sides of the gulley where the snow was solid.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Headlamp, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Clear



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