Ascent of Forbidden Peak on 2021-07-11

Climber: Ryan Cairnes

Date:Sunday, July 11, 2021
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Forbidden Peak
    Elevation:8815 ft / 2686 m

Ascent Trip Report

Cascade River Rd being closed made this a burly climb! I STRONGLY suggest gaining the North Ridge more southerly than what we did. The gully we took was loose, unprotectable, run out, class 4, with a ~5.6 corner finish. It was the sketchiest lead that I've ever done. In hindsight, the prominent notch with a slabbly scramble just south looked like the best option to gain the ridge. The second best was further south. Both options had crossable moats. There are plenty of bivies on route; most will only handle 2 climbers though. The established tat on the West Ridge is gone. We backed up the rap station above the crux; it only had a 6mm cord with no metal. We downclimbed most of the remaining West Ridge.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Road Hike, Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Headlamp, Bivouac
Ascent Statistics
    Route:North Ridge
Descent Statistics
    Route:West Ridge
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Ryan Cairnes
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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