Ascent of Forbidden Peak on 2021-07-11
|Date:||Sunday, July 11, 2021|
|Ascent Type:||Successful Summit Attained|
| Elevation:||8815 ft / 2686 m|
Ascent Trip ReportCascade River Rd being closed made this a burly climb! I STRONGLY suggest gaining the North Ridge more southerly than what we did. The gully we took was loose, unprotectable, run out, class 4, with a ~5.6 corner finish. It was the sketchiest lead that I've ever done. In hindsight, the prominent notch with a slabbly scramble just south looked like the best option to gain the ridge. The second best was further south. Both options had crossable moats. There are plenty of bivies on route; most will only handle 2 climbers though. The established tat on the West Ridge is gone. We backed up the rap station above the crux; it only had a 6mm cord with no metal. We downclimbed most of the remaining West Ridge.
|Summary Total Data|
| Route Conditions:||Road Hike, Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Glacier Climb|
| Gear Used:||Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Headlamp, Bivouac|
| Route:||North Ridge|
| Route:||West Ridge|
|GPS Data for Ascent/Trip|
GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks: climbed and unclimbed by Ryan Cairnes
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