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Ascent of Organ Needle on 2021-01-02

Climber: Evan Battaglia

Date:Saturday, January 2, 2021
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Organ Needle
    Location:USA-New Mexico
    Elevation:8980 ft / 2737 m

Ascent Trip Report

Peakbagger was down (panic!) so I had to rely on descriptions on Mountain Project and Hiking Project (which was actually pretty useful, with a GPX file). Went up the "Ingraham's Gully" route on Mountain Project. Was confused at first because the description there doesn't say what Hummingbird Saddle is -- it's the saddle immediately south of the summit block, above Dark Canyon. After descending the normal route I was surprised to see it seemed much worse than class 3, at least without the fixed rope. It was much worse than the "class 4" of Florida Peak the previous day, as it was exposed, unlike Florida Peak's. I actually put on my harness and clipped into the knots in the rope for protection. Further below I missed a turn through the brush and went up a gully and by the time I realized my mistake it was easier to ascend again to the summit and try again. I didn't bother putting on my harness again for my second descent of the crux. The entire descent all the way to the Yellow Hills was tedious, as it is quite steep. About 7 hours RT with probably about an hour on top and then the wasted time due to my descent blunder.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Exposed Scramble
    Gear Used:
Rope



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