Ascent of Mount Buttle on 2020-04-12

Climber: Kyle Clare

Date:Sunday, April 12, 2020
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Buttle
    Elevation:4528 ft / 1380 m

Ascent Trip Report

Approached via Marguerite Main logging road of off North Shore Main. Marguerite is gated at the bottom which led to a long haul up the road on foot. From where I parked the mountains looked pretty snow free, so I made the mistake of leaving the snowshoes in the car. The first few kms were snow free and easy, however once I got deep enough into the valley the surrounding mountains blocked the sunlight enough that I got into some pretty deep snow despite the snowline appearing to be much higher on the surrounding mountains.

On the ascent the snow was fairly consolidated and I didn't post hole too much. Eventually the road wound its way up the SW face of Mount Buttle, where I followed it to its end. From the end of the road it was a short ascent up the South Ridge. A small logging slash provided the first obstacle, and then a steep ascent through old growth forest dodging a few cliff bands before getting into more open terrain below the summit. The entire ascent from the end of the logging road was on extremely hard packed snow and crampons and an ax were used. The descent back down the logging road was tedious as the snow had softened and almost every step resulted in a post hole. Really regretted leaving the snowshoes behind.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Road Hike, Bushwhack, Snow on Ground, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons

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