Ascent to Mount Rainier-13300 on 2020-08-17

Climber: Rick Teudt

Date:Monday, August 17, 2020
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Point Reached:Mount Rainier - 13300
    Elevation:13300 ft / 4053 m
    Remaining Elevation:1111 ft / 339 m (12% left to go)

Ascent Trip Report

Climbed to Camp Muir on a day when it was 98 degrees in Seattle. Muir snowfield was actually very pleasant because of high clouds and a breeze blowing over the snow. Clouds thickened in the afternoon, turned to light rain in the evening, and then thunder at night. Woke to clear sky and calm wind. Cleaver was fairly well-marked and ascent was relatively quick. At the top of the cleaver visibility quickly dropped and wind picked up; a lenticular cloud was forming. We climbed another 1,000 ft on an obvious boot path with occasional wands, dodging very large late-season crevasses. By the time we reached 13,300 ft, visibility was <50 ft and wind was 30-40 mph with much higher gusts, strong enough to knock us off balance. We decided it was too dangerous to continue so we turned around. Talked to a group that made it to the crater rim before turning around and they said it was worse higher up. On the return while traveling through Cathedral Rocks we were hit by extremely high wind, gusts 60-70 mph, with blowing sand/gravel.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:7900 ft / 2407 m
    Total Elevation Loss:7900 ft / 2407 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Headlamp, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:1 nights away from roads
    Weather:Drizzle, Cool, Extremely Windy, White-out
Partly cloudy and pleasant to Muir, rain overnight, windy/whiteout during ascent
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:7900 ft / 2407 m
    Loss on way in:7900 ft / 2407 m
    Distance:10.5 mi / 16.9 km
Descent Statistics

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