Ascent of Seven Fingered Jack on 2020-08-01

Climber: Karthik Krish

Others in Party:Sanket Patel
Date:Saturday, August 1, 2020
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Seven Fingered Jack
    Elevation:9100 ft / 2773 m

Ascent Trip Report

4 of us started at the Phelps Creek TH at 8:30 AM. The road to the TH is pretty rough but should not be a problem for AWDs.

Took us an hour to reach the creek crossing. Note that you can either use a log further down or look for cairns after a obvious camp site ~3.5 miles for easy crossing. The Leroy creek trail starts off steep and gains ~2990 ft pretty quickly to the amazing Leroy Basin.

Now you can see the entire climbing route up 7FJ and there are multiple choices to head up. The climb can be broken down into 3 parts. First is to get to the basin at 6800ft. We found a really good climbers trail at 6200 ft off the main trail which took us directly to the 6800 ft basin.

The next is to get to flat bench at ~7800 ft below 7FJ/Maude col. There are multiple ways to get up here. Going up we climbed up a gully next to a waterfall and then a terrible steep class 2 gully with loose rock (our decent route was much simpler and one can avoid all of this).

From the bench follow the SW ridge staying as far left/up where possible. None of the spires from the bench is the true summit. It is not visible till you cross over left to find the correct gully ~200 ft below the summit. So keep going up keeping left when in doubt and look for a big cairn pile which will help you cross over (you can see the big creek basin from there). Scramble up the final gully to the true summit with a summit register. We reached the summit by ~3:00 PM.

The descent down was uneventful. We made it down to the basin by 6 PM and out by 8:45 PM. Note that there are plenty of water sources along the way.
Summary Total Data
    Route:SW Ridge
    Trailhead:Phelps Creek TH  
    Grade/Class:Class 2
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Scramble
    Gear Used:
Ski Poles
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Clear
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Karthik Krish
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

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