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Ascent of Maja e Jezercës on 2020-07-28

Climber: Robert Guzik

Date:Tuesday, July 28, 2020
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Maja e Jezercës
    Location:Albania
    Elevation:8839 ft / 2694 m

Ascent Trip Report

The ascent from Montenegro from Vusanje via north face. Marked path (red dots and red straps). In good weather route easy to find out, but some wayfinding experience and intuition still needed, in bad weather - well it would become extremely difficult. Technically it is F+, although there is a chimney to get out from the north face and it is 45-60 steep and if there is snow (there was still some at the end of July) ascent without the ice axe and crampons is almost impossible any fall there would be lethal one because the chimney/gully ends down with vertical wall below. There is a bolt above the chimney so it is possible to rappel when going down or to belay someone less experienced. As regards permit to cross the border we have had any :-) we asked a policeman whom we gave a lift (from Podgorica to Gusanje) how to obtain one and he said that no one is protecting the border and as long as we do not intend to visit Albanian valleys we do not need any, he admiteed that technically our plan to cross the border is illegal but he would do it :-). (Because of COIVID there was impossible to obtain permit anyway).
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At the top (2020-07-28). Photo by Robert Guzik.
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