Ascent of Mount Deception on 2020-07-20

Climber: Joerg Zuend

Date:Monday, July 20, 2020
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Deception
    Elevation:7788 ft / 2373 m

Ascent Trip Report

Doing Mt Deception made me a bit nervous, particularly solo. The Olympic Mountain Guide rates it as I,2; route 3 from Royal Lake. Reading reports on this site and others that it was very dangerous due to rockfall and much more difficult than Class 2.
I had a good day starting at around 5:30AM. The snow field was still unbroken and crusty up to the brownish debris chute. The scrambling above (to the right of the chute)was good to descent rock and was not particularly difficult. I think it is more difficult than Grade 2 but barely.
There seem to be many possible routes and I may have just been lucky to hit a good one. I was though sufficiently nervous about the way back down that I set my own cairns.
The descent to the glacier, walk around Gilhooley and up to the peak is just Grade 1.

I struggled on the way down and was missing my cairns several times getting into more difficult terrain. At one point I got into a what I judge to be - and for me scary - Grade 4.

As a scrambler that feels generally comfortable in Grade 2, fine in Grade 3, and nervous in Grade 4, my thinking is that the difficulty of this route is in route finding, particularly the way back. (I could not see any sign of a footpath, hiker trail, or Cairns), except there are two wooden stick that mark the ridge. Of course you see this only once you are there. Take note of the correct entry point for the way back.

Of course if there is no snow on the initial ascent, I guess the rockfalls and scree would be rather uncomfortable.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:5000 ft / 1524 m
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Scramble
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:5000 ft / 1524 m
    Start Trailhead:2788 ft / 849 m
Descent Statistics
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Joerg Zuend
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

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