Ascent of Chimney Rock on 2020-07-11

Climber: James Barlow

Others in Party:Connor McEntee
Date:Saturday, July 11, 2020
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Chimney Rock
    Elevation:7727 ft / 2355 m

Ascent Trip Report

We absolutely nailed the approach hike perfectly on the way out (about 95% perfect on the way in), so this track should help the prospective peakbagger get the approach without any alder-bashing and minimal devil's club joy. Just past the log crossing to the creek, a big fat log gets you across the only really large devil's club patch. Right at 3760 you cross from the right side to the left side of a gully to avoid cliffs and keep in the open forest. Ideal campsite at 4800' which we learned from Susan Shih's TR.
Conditions were absolutely perfect because we could get from the snow right on to the first pitch. There was some snow on the far right side of the first 2 ledges where you go right then left on class 2-3 ledges, so we had to climb straight up from the lower ledge to upper ledge, which was low 5th class. Connor and I swapped leads for the most part, and he led the final pair of pitches to the top as well as what we felt was the crux pitch below where the East Face route connects. My favorite pitches on the sharp end were the first pitch off the snow and the dihedral from the top of the ledge.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:5107 ft / 1556 m
    Total Elevation Loss:180 ft / 54 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Bushwhack, Stream Ford, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:5107 ft / 1556 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 4927 ft / 1502 m; Extra: 180 ft / 54m
    Loss on way in:180 ft / 54 m
    Route:East Face Direct II, 5.6
    Start Trailhead:2800 ft / 853 m
Descent Statistics
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by James Barlow
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

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