Ascent of Bishorn on 2019-07-06

Climber: Caj Svensson

Others in Party:Eva and Cecilia
Date:Saturday, July 6, 2019
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Elevation:13625 ft / 4152 m

Ascent Trip Report

Alarm at 4:00 and breakfast at 4:30, we emptied the hut bedroom, cached stuff
in the boot room downstairs and were ready to leave by 5:15, roped up, but
without the crampons. Hiked over some rocks to snow nearby where the crampons
came on as well. Started eastwards at 5:30, up on the glacier, in a good pace.
Sun raised over the horizon and warmed up a bit. A few parties passed us on the way
An uneventful climb with a few crevasse passings on good and firm snow.
We reached the Bishorn saddle and waited there before summitting as
a guided group without necessary crampon training were descending on
the steep ice at the top.
Reached the Bishorn summit at about 8:30.
We shared it with a Swiss group and they invited us to share schnapps
from a bottle. It was the first 4000er for Cissi and for the Swiss group.
I made a quick guess that maybe no. 15 for Eva and me. We descended to the
saddle and climbed the Eastern summit, Pointe Burnaby, as well.
It is a rock summit and we shot some more pictures. Pointe Burnaby is
named after Mrs. Burnaby who was the first climber to scale this summit, in 1884.
The weather was good although some dark clouds was visible in the sky.
I belayed the girls down from the Pointe Burnaby and we
started down just before 9 and were back at the hut in just over an hour.
A quick descent. Stopped in for the cached stuff, to get some rest and
for coffee and cake.
Left for the long valley descent at 11:15. Had a few stops on the way back and
our speed deteriorated as we got more tired. We passed two other groups
we saw on the climb. Two Italian guys that stayed in the same bedroom
as we, and three German men, that we believe is the group
from the summit that didn't have the proper crampon training. We saw them trying
to walk around the cows on the trail. Really funny. We reached the car in less than
three hours. Drove the 2 km to Europe Hotel in Zinal. It was already beer o'clock.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:2831 ft / 862 m
    Total Elevation Loss:7730 ft / 2356 m
    Round-Trip Distance:9.9 mi / 16 km
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Open Country, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Hut Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:2831 ft / 862 m
    Distance:2.8 mi / 4.5 km
    Route:Normal trail
    Start Trailhead:Tacuit hut  10794 ft / 3290 m
    Time:3 Hours 
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:7730 ft / 2356 m
    Distance:7.1 mi / 11.5 km
    End Trailhead:Zinal parking  5895 ft / 1796 m
    Time:4 Hours 

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