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Ascent of Koip Peak on 2019-08-14

Climber: Redd Sea

Other People:Solo Ascent
Only Party on Mountain
Date:Wednesday, August 14, 2019
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Koip Peak
    Location:USA-California
    Elevation:12962 ft / 3950 m

Ascent Trip Report

Koip Peak: Class 2 volcanic talus

Started from the Mono/Parker Pass trailhead in Yosemite. Took the trail to Koip Pass. Scrambled straight up the talus to the obvious peak. Easily went around a large snow patch along the ridgeline. Did not find a summit entree. Skies quickly turned black above me at this point. I could see the plane wreckage between Koip and Kuna though. I decided to brave the lightning and quickly view the airplane crash. It is on the saddle between the two mountains, about 50 vertical feet downhill on the northside, a little bit closer to Kuna than Koip. It's hard to miss.

Kuna Peak: Class 2 volcanic Talus (Unsuccessful due to lightning)

Despite being less than 175 vertical feet from Kuna I had to turn around because of the threat of lightning. I would have started a couple of hours earlier if I didn't have to wait for the wilderness station to open up and serve permits and the bus from Toulumne Meadows to the trailhead never came. I should not have even gone past Koip towards the plane crash. Kuna appears to be the exact same talus as Koip. In fact, I'm surprised that Koip isn't considered a subpeak of Kuna.


I returned to Koip Pass, hiked down to Alger Lake, spent the night. The next morning was the first time I saw someone else in about 25 hours. I hiked towards Thousand Island Lake and climbed up North Glacier Pass to Lake Catherine. North Glacier Pass would be a lot easier right now with an ice axe. My route involved a lot of scrambling back and forth between semi-permanent snowfields. On the way back down the pass I noticed a string of talus piles that I was happy to knock over. Found a great camping spot here. Next day I hiked home on the John Muir Trail.

I learned that I truly hate the John Muir Trail. Horses have literally destroyed the Ansel Adams Wilderness. I saw 30+ illegal campsites and only 2 legal ones. It seemed like everybody I saw was on their very first backpacking trip. Next time I will do more peakbagging and less trail hiking in popular areas. I was the only person in line at the Wilderness Station that wasn't trying to climb half dome or Donohue Pass.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:3273 ft / 997 m
    Grade/Class:class 2
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Snow on Ground, Scramble
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:3273 ft / 997 m
    Route:Koip Pass
    Start Trailhead:Mono/Parker Pass  9689 ft / 2953 m
Descent Statistics
Ascent Part of Trip: Koip (2 nights total away from roads)

Complete Trip Sequence:
OrderPeak/PointDateGain
1Koip Peak2019-08-143273 ft / 998 m
2(Attempt) Kuna Peak2019-08-145 ft / 2 m
Total Trip Gain: 3278 ft / 1000 m



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