Ascent of Noshaq on 2019-07-26

Climber: Eric Gilbertson

Date:Friday, July 26, 2019
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Elevation:24580 ft / 7491 m

Ascent Trip Report

Noshaq (24,590ft) - Highest Mountain in Afghanistan

July 6-31, 2019

Eric, Andreas, Pat, Marie, Ian, Ray, Luwig

Link to full trip report and pictures.

July 6 Eric departs Seattle in evening

July 7 flight over northern Greenland connecting in Dubai

July 8 arrive Dushanbe, Tajikistan, buy supplies, 4x4 14hr taxi to Khorog

July 9 pick up Afghan visas, taxi to border, cross into Afghanistan, sleep in Ishkashim

July 10 get wakhan permit, drive to Qazi Deh, arrange porters, hike 14km to landmine camp 4000m

July 11 hike 17km to bc 4700m

July 12 carry load to 5000m, sleep at bc

July 13 carry load to c1 5500m

July 14 rest day at bc

July 15 move to c1

July 16 carry load to 6000m, sleep at c1

July 17 rest day at c1

July 18 move to c2 6200m

July 19 carry climbing gear to base of crux rock step at 6800m

July 20 rest at c2

July 21 summit attempt. I lead 5.6 m4 rock step, retreat at 7100m in storm, fix lines on crux

July 22 return to bc

July 23 rest day at bc

July 24 move to c2

July 25 move to c3 at 6700m

July 26 Eric Andreas Pat Marie summit. Eric Andreas hike down to bc

July 27 rest in bc

July 28 porters arrive, hike out to Qazi Deh

July 29 cross back to Tajikistan, taxi to khorog. Team splits up

July 30 Taxi to Dushanbe

July 31 Arrive Dushanbe 4am
Click on photo for original larger-size version.
Andreas on the summit (2019-07-26). Photo by Eric Gilbertson.
Click here for larger-size photo.
Summary Total Data
    Grade/Class:5.6 M4
    Route Conditions:
Road Hike, Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb, Ice Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Headlamp, Ski Poles, Porters, Animal/Pet, Tent Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Route:West Ridge
Descent Statistics

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