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Ascent of Peak 13039 on 2019-07-26

Climber: Mike Wright

Others in Party:Tom & Tom’s Dad
Date:Friday, July 26, 2019
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Peak 13039
    Location:USA-Colorado
    Elevation:13039 ft / 3974 m

Ascent Trip Report

We parked overnight at the MAROON Bells PA and started at 5am under questionable weather predictions. Cloudy at 5am is not a good omen. But we were happy to get out for a hike even if it ended at the pass. Arrived at Buckskin Pass at 815-830 ish and started the 0.5mi ascent to UN13039 which is supposed to be an “easy class 2 walk up” only to find class 3-3+ in some spots. There’s an unitial climb up towards a cliff on loose scree and rock. We traversed right under the cliff on an ascending traverse to its end where an exposed chimney looms below. Here we climbed the shortest part of the cliff with an easy class 3 move. The rest of the ridge was class 2-2+. Arrived at the false summit and descended down a short way to the a small saddle for the final climb up a gully. Initial moves off the saddle were class 3 then easy to the top of the gully where there’s another move to finish. Not bad but some rock climbing involved.
We spent little time at the summit and descended before it could rain on us and headed back to the saddle where Tom’s Dad was waiting patiently. Then we started the ascent to Buckskin BM up very steep grassy slopes at times broken by shelves of red rocks all class 2. I stayed mostly close to the ridge, the top ridge was easy but longer than I expected. We descended quickly again back to the pass to find Tom’s dad had begun descending. It started to drizzle but nothing bad and no thunder. We totally lucked out with the weather. Lots of elevation close to 5000 ft and 11mi total.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Open Country, Scramble, Exposed Scramble
    Gear Used:
Headlamp, Ski Poles
    Weather:Drizzle, Cool, Calm, Overcast
Ascent Part of Trip: Buck

Complete Trip Sequence:
OrderPeak/PointDateGain
1Peak 130392019-07-26 
2Buckskin Benchmark2019-07-26 



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