Ascent of Gannett Peak on 2019-07-23

Climber: Greg Gerlach

Others in Party:Keith Christensen
Paul Garry
Date:Tuesday, July 23, 2019
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Gannett Peak
    Elevation:13804 ft / 4207 m

Ascent Trip Report

Our group spent 1.5 days driving the 1000 miles from southern California to the Glacier Trailhead. From there, we started backpacking in at 3:30 p.m. and managed to do 7 miles before dark, camping at a marginal and waterless site just before the pass. The next day, we backpacked another 17 miles, finding a great campsite about one mile from the end of the Glacier Trail at 10500' in elevation. We managed to cross Dinwoody Creek at the partially flooded-out bridge without getting wet by crossing on logs, the part of the bridge that is still above water, and islands, but we had to ford the knee high water of Klondike Creek. On the third day, we left camp at 4:10 a.m., walking up the trail to its end and then accoss the moraine, then climbing the mountain via its Standard Route up the glacier and the peak's south ridge, mostly on snow but also up some class 2 to class 2+ rock. The bergschrund was completely covered with snow. Further, the route up the snow is very steep in places, maybe 45 degrees, requiring good crampon and ice ax skills; we had a rope, but did not use it. Also, the snow was perfect for crampons, with just occasional post holing along the ridge near some of the rocks. Craig and Vanessa from Seattle were about 5 minutes behind us in reaching the top. I counted another 6 people who attempted, but failed to reach the summit. After signing the summit register, we retraced our route back to camp, arriving at 4:00 p.m., for a 12 hour day. On the fourth day, our group backpacked about 13 miles, camping at Double Lake, and on the fifth day we backpacked the remaining 11 miles out to the car, arriving at 1:00 p.m.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:9900 ft / 3016 m
    Total Elevation Loss:9900 ft / 3016 m
    Round-Trip Distance:54 mi / 86.9 km
    Grade/Class:See trip report
    Quality:10 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Stream Ford, Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Headlamp, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:4 nights away from roads
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:8050 ft / 2453 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 6200 ft / 1890 m; Extra: 1850 ft / 563m
    Loss on way in:1850 ft / 563 m
    Distance:27 mi / 43.5 km
    Route:Glacier Trail/standard route
    Start Trailhead:Glacier Trailhead  7604 ft / 2317 m
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:8050 ft / 2453 m
        Loss Breakdown:Net: 6200 ft / 1890 m; Extra: 1850 ft / 563m
    Gain on way out:1850 ft / 563 m
    Distance:27 mi / 43.5 km
    Route:Standard route/Glacier Trail
    End Trailhead:Glacier Trailhead  7604 ft / 2317 m

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