Ascent of Gannett Peak on 2019-07-19

Climber: Steve Hernick

Others in Party:Andrew Rowlands
Date:Friday, July 19, 2019
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Gannett Peak
    Elevation:13804 ft / 4207 m

Ascent Trip Report

Perfect conditions! The trail to Titcomb Basin was in great shape. The creek crossings were mostly pretty easy. Titcomb Basin was largely free of snow and there were plenty of spots to camp. There was also plenty of wind, which delayed our summit bid by a day. Excellent snow conditions throughout summit day with the exception of coming back down Bonney Pass in the late afternoon. Very few crevasses open on the glacier; any that were visible were easy to avoid. There was really no reason to go the normal route over the Gooseneck bergschrund and up the steep and long slope above it right now. We bypassed it and climbed a steep and wide snow slope to the left of the bergschrund (there's one snow slope in between) that has a benign runout. Above that, there was very easy rock scrambling (no more than Class 2) to the slope leading to the summit ridge. The summit ridge had a lot of snow and is extremely exposed: it's a hairy last few hundred yard to the most difficult to reach highpoint in the lower 48! The wind was gusting directly at us on the ascent back up Bonney, making that stretch especially miserable. The climb back down Bonney was pretty sketchy because of the snow conditions. We sidestepped most of the way. We didn't feel comfortable glissading much because of the steepness and rock exposure.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:9004 ft / 2743 m
    Extra Gain:2280 ft / 694 m
    Round-Trip Distance:42.9 mi / 69 km
    Route:Bonney Pass
    Trailhead:Elkhart Park  9360 ft / 2852 m
    Grade/Class:Class 3
    Quality:10 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Headlamp, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:4 nights away from roads
    Weather:Cool, Windy, Partly Cloudy

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