Ascent of Gannett Peak on 2019-07-18

Climber: Michael Quint

Date:Thursday, July 18, 2019
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Gannett Peak
    Elevation:13804 ft / 4207 m

Ascent Trip Report

5 day ascent via the Glacier Trail starting on July 16 and ending on July 20.
We had the benefit of a late snowmelt, weather was perfect, and mosquitoes were fairly mild.

Day 1 - We sent our gear forward via Chandley Outfitters over to the Double Creek camp about 15 miles, saving us a brutal hike up the Arrowhead Pass with 50 pound packs. We setup camp at Double Creek and cached some of our last day resources to save our energy for the return trip.

Day 2 - Hiked from Double Creek CG to a spot 9.5 miles down the glacier trail. We had to cross 3 creeks, the hardest being the Ganett Creek crossing about a mile before we set up camp a mile away from Tarns.

Day 3 - Alpine Ascent at 3 am making our way to Tarns Camp and the Dinwoody Glacier. Roped up on Dinwoody taking a snowbridge up halfway up a rock field between the Dinwoody and Gooseneck. Scrambled the rest of the way before donning our crampons and rope on the Dinwoody. Had great footsteps to follow all the way to the Gooseneck Bergshrund. Climbed over the unexposed bergshrund gaining the upper ridge near the Pinnacle. Weather was windy but manageable. We gained the summit, took some pictures, and reversed the process save for some glissades down the Gooseneck Glacier and snowfields instead of talus fields to save our legs. Snow was soft but there was no sign of crevassing. We reached camp just shy of 4:00pm - 13 hours for a 4 man team.

Day 4 - We broke camp around 9 am hiked back to our cache at Double Creek and pushed on to Double Lake taking on 1000 ft of switchbacks but saving us a longer return day to the trailhead. We camped our last night at Double Lake.

Day 5 - We broke camp at around 6:30am and made our way to the trailhead. Another successful trip!

Weather couldn't have been better and the snow steps on Gannett were great with minimal postholing, however this may change as the peak gets more use. This is the hardest climb I've ever done and that shower back in Dubois couldn't have felt better!

Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Stream Ford, Mud/Swamp, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Headlamp, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
    Weather:Cold, Windy, Partly Cloudy

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