Ascent of Mount Olympus on 2019-06-13

Climber: Tom Mullen

Others in Party:Sergey Lazutin
Date:Thursday, June 13, 2019
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Olympus
    Elevation:7969 ft / 2428 m

Ascent Trip Report

Started ~1040AM 6/12 during a mini-heat wave, temps in the 80s. Combined with our grueling pace we were sweating quite a bit. Finally made it to Glacier Meadows around 8PM where the mosquitos were swarming.
Got going at little after 4AM and were on the Blue Glacier by 5:30AM. We were able to traverse directly across and then wind our way over rock and snow up to Snow Dome using a more easterly access than the standard route; this probably won't last much longer given the temps and rushing water heard under the snow. Top of Snow Dome by 8:30AM. We could see a boot pack going the Crystal Pass route as well as the 4th of July route heading to the saddle between the West Summit and False Summit. There was a bergschrund but still enough of a snow bridge for the 4th of July Route to go, so we took this route. There was a patch of soft snow at the corner of the bergschrund/crevasse that was traversable but won't last for long. At the summit block with chose the North Face 5th class route. Summit by 11:30AM. Rappel to the base was easy with 60m rope. Back at Glacier Meadows by 3:15PM. Only team on route the whole day. Hiked to 12.3 mi camp then out the next day. Feet got pretty sore in the last 5 miles so slowed me down. Overall TH to TH in ~49 hours.
Summary Total Data
    Quality:8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Headlamp, Ski Poles, Tent Camp

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