Ascent of South Early Winter Spire on 2019-05-05

Climber: Karthik Krish

Date:Sunday, May 5, 2019
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:South Early Winter Spire
    Elevation:7807 ft / 2379 m

Ascent Trip Report

2 of us attempted the SW couloir on the South Early Winters Spire. The last TR indicated that the couloir was melting out fast and given the warm weather streak, we carried ropes, pickets, rock protection gear (cams/nuts), one ice tool and one ice axe.

We left the TH at 8:30AM, followed the kicked in path to the base of the couloir.

Here we roped up and simul climbed till the the right fork, then up the right fork placing intermediate protection where possible (1 picket, one nut on the side walls). This is all snow.

We then hit bunch of mixed steps (scree/ice/wet rock). Be careful of loose rock here. This is the crux. Once past this section there is consistent snow again till the top ridge line (you will see a tree with slings around it). From here, its a short scramble to the summit (we pitched out this section as well).

The descent rappels into the couloir are not obvious so it took longer than expected. From the summit, we belayed each other back to the top of the couloir. We rapped down from the slinged tree at the top of the couloir (left a carabiner here since there were none) on the climbers left of couloir to a clump of trees (one can potentially downclimb this as well). Then another rap to a rock horn visible below. We then rapped into the couloir to another rap station on the climbers right of the couloir (a 60m rappel will just about get you there). A rap from here will then put you approximately back at the start of the right fork for mellower terrain. From here you can either down climb or there is another rap station on a tree below the left fork (we opted to use this) and then down climbed the rest back to the base.

The hike out was uneventful. We made it back to the car by 8:30 PM.

Summary Total Data
    Route:SW Couloir
    Route Conditions:
Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Karthik Krish
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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