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Ascent to Mount Athabasca-North Glacier Bergschrund on 2007-06-19

Climber: Ray Cossette

Others in Party:Matt Comeau
Date:Tuesday, June 19, 2007
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Point Reached:Mount Athabasca - North Glacier Bergschrund
    Location:Canada-Alberta
    Elevation:10500 ft / 3200 m
    Remaining Elevation:953 ft / 290 m (12% left to go)

Ascent Trip Report

With a 4:30am start, we were well on our way towards our planned route on Silverhorn. However, at 9500ft, the weather started to move in and the Silverhorn was no longer to be seen, let alone attempted. We decided to take the North glacier route up instead, but again at 10,500ft, th snow was coming down heavily and visability was minimal at best. We made the decision to turn back about 50ft from the Bergschrund near the North glacier ridge.

On the way down, Matt broke through a snowbridge - his pack got caught on the side of the crevasse and he was able to pull himself free. We were tied in at the time.

The day after, we were able to see a fresh avalanche that had come down that night, and took out our tracks. Turning around was the right decision.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:7000 ft / 2133 m
    Total Elevation Loss:3500 ft / 1066 m
    Grade/Class:Class II
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope
    Weather:Snowing, Cold, Very Windy, White-out
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:7000 ft / 2133 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 3500 ft / 1067 m; Extra: 3500 ft / 1066m
    Loss on way in:3500 ft / 1066 m
    Route:Normal Route
    Start Trailhead:Climbers Parking lot  7000 ft / 2133 m
    Time:0 Days 4 Hours 30 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Route:Normal route/some sidetracking
    End Trailhead:Norh Glacier Bergschrund  10500 ft / 3200 m
    Time:1 Hours 30 Minutes



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