Ascent of Chair Peak on 2018-12-08

Climber: chris hooper

Date:Saturday, December 8, 2018
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Peak:Chair Peak
    Elevation:6100 ft / 1859 m

Ascent Trip Report

Questionable thin conditions on the NE Buttress. Two other more experienced looking parties turned back on the North Face. The first pitch of the NE Buttress was tenuous mixed climbing on de-laminating ice (ice slides right off the rock), without options for ice screws. Cams didn't seem to hold well in most places due to ice, but some good options for nuts and tri-cams. We broke the 1st pitch into two pitches so we could hear each other over the wind. The 4th pitch didn't look in - really thin ice waterfall barely formed. Ventured out into the 3rd pitch (out of 5 total pitches to the summit) but determined pickets wouldn't necessarily work for an anchor due to too little (and non-cohesive) snow and few other options for pro were obvious from below. Didn't have a second 60m rope for a long rap off the 4th pitch if we went for it then retreated, and 3rd pitch looked scary to down-climb in present conditions with snow and ice unable to hold body weight. Will be back when conditions improve. Some signs of an earlier party making it to the 3rd pitch or further some days before us (foot prints in the snow). The Snow Lake Trail is presently the best approach, the source lake direct trail was poor beyond the lake. Climbing partner, Ben, was super rad, great company, kept us in check.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Snow on Ground, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb, Ice Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope
Ascent Statistics
    Route:NE Buttress
Descent Statistics

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