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Ascent of Fuya Fuya on 2018-11-13

Climber: Alex Lennon

Date:Tuesday, November 13, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Fuya Fuya
    Location:Ecuador
    Elevation:14039 ft / 4279 m

Ascent Trip Report

Don't let the short round-trip distance and low elevation gain fool you- this is far more than merely a prominence peak, and in fact it is high in the running for coolest half-day peak hike in Ecuador. The Mojanda crater complex is stunning, with a couple major summits and probably twenty minor but rugged-looking peaks encircling not one but three crater lakes. The surrounding hillsides are covered in rolling subalpine meadows (páramo) which form the base of the jagged peaks. I climbed the east peak of Fuya Fuya first, then scrambled the ridgeline all the way to the main peak. Be advised: this is one of the most enjoyable ridge scrambles I have ever done. From what little experience I have with Ecuadorian rock quality, the entirety of this ridge has got to be some of the best-quality rock in Ecuador. That being said, some of the moves are highly exposed 4th class (first ~30ft up from the saddle toward the main peak) and the rest is airy class 2 with one or two class 3 moves thrown in. So much fun! For those not so comfortable with heights, traverse from the saddle around climbers-right of the main peak and there is an easier ascent route up the other side. Still a semi-scramble, I think- I didn't bother to investigate however.

Be sure to get up here early if you want views. I was staying at La Luna mtn lodge, partway up the Mojanda road. After breakfast there, I had them call me a taxi to take me the remaining 11km to the lake and the trailhead. This took ~40 mins and I arrived at 8:50. I made the traverse of both peaks and topped out on Fuya Fuya main peak at 10:20. I enjoyed clear weather until about 10:30, when the clouds closed in very quickly. I still got plenty of sporadic views after that, but it was worth making the push to get up there in the early AM. I hiked down, walked around the lake some more, then walked the 11km down to La Luna to end the day's adventure.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:2050 ft / 624 m
    Route Conditions:
Road Hike, Maintained Trail, Scramble, Exposed Scramble
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:2050 ft / 624 m
    Start Trailhead:11989 ft / 3654 m
Descent Statistics



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