Ascent of Three Sisters - Middle Peak on 2018-11-07

Climber: William Musser

Other People:Solo Ascent
Only Party on Mountain
Date:Wednesday, November 7, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Three Sisters - Middle Peak
    Elevation:7840 ft / 2389 m

Ascent Trip Report

Every time I go up the sisters I found a new route I have never tried. Today, I got off trail and attacked the Brother first but instead of the normal routes I go up I bushwhacked over to the steep southern ledges and found all sorts of new scrambles varying from 2+ to class 4. I played around on several slabs and upclimbs and went up a crack I have noticed from the top but never tried to climb (see basic approaches from GPS track) normally I scramble up from the east where you are drawn like most off trail people to the small perched tower. But this south approach has a lot of interesting places to explore. Once on the brother, I did not take my normal line to the South Sister, but stayed deliberately further east exploring new places to climb and finding some interesting rock where a lot of people have bouldered (based on the chalk in the rock) - I have to remember to bring my daughter's fiancee in this area (he likes bouldering).

Then, nearing the South Sister, I took a line further southwest than normal and found fun rock to climb and ended up on the lower southern tower and the ran down the long slab skirted around the big tower (was looking for something new to do) and decided to climb the middle sister but not from the classic south route up the fracture or the easy north routes, I tried the western side. There are some tricky exposed boulders and routes this way and I cliffed out. This is the second time I abandoned this route as it gets very exposed in some areas. The class 4 gets spooky with some consequences I don't like without a rope. Leave that to you class 5 free climbing junkies.

But there is some exposed class 3 (3+) that is fun to the top from the west side as well.
On the way down, I avoided trails and tried a downclimb route of easy class 2+ and 3 that ended up far east of the peaks but higher than the trails below. I stumbled into a huge steep slab that I had never seen before. I must come back and play on this more some day. The slab is directly south of the South Sister but is NOT connected to her eastern face. There is woods between them and some interesting teepee structures kids have built in the area. The slab has a seep section of lower class 5 that was tempting to smear, but my more conservative sensibility dominated, for me without a rope, and as with many slabs in the area the slope decreases in one direction so as you hike further SE it decreases to 4, then 3. There is an interesting erosion feature splitting the slab in half and allowing a safe easy class 3 ascent. I must bring Dan back here as he enjoys when we both pick lines adjacent to each other but his are always at least a half a class harder and far more exposed than I take. Ha! There is a slope just right for every scrambler in this area.

Looking back on my tracks this year, I have climbed these fun features many different ways but I am amazed how many different routes you can find. And endless playground!
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:225 ft / 67 m
    Total Elevation Loss:85 ft / 25 m
    Round-Trip Distance:0.8 mi / 1.3 km
    Grade/Class:2,2+3, 3+, 4
    Quality:6 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Bushwhack, Scramble, Exposed Scramble
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:180 ft / 54 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 140 ft / 43 m; Extra: 40 ft / 12m
    Loss on way in:40 ft / 12 m
    Distance:0.2 mi / 0.3 km
    Route:exploratory scrambles
    Start Trailhead:saddle between peaks  7700 ft / 2346 m
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:45 ft / 13 m
    Gain on way out:45 ft / 13 m
    Distance:0.6 mi / 1 km
    Route:exploratory scrambles
Ascent Part of Trip: Evergreen-12

Complete Trip Sequence:
1The Brother2018-11-07 a378 ft / 115 m
2Three Sisters - Middle Peak2018-11-07 b225 ft / 69 m
Total Trip Gain: 603 ft / 184 m    Total Trip Loss: 243 ft / 74 m
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by William Musser
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

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