Ascent to Observation Rock-Top of ice climb on 2018-10-20

Climber: Rikki-Rachelle Hinz

Date:Saturday, October 20, 2018
Ascent Type:No Summit Goal
Point Reached:Observation Rock - Top of ice climb
    Elevation:8150 ft / 2484 m

Ascent Trip Report

Via the north face AI2/3.

Our morning began with a 3:45a wake up call of a car full of high teenagers blaring some kind of awful metal music. Even with our courteous, "Shut the f*ck up!" comment the music went off and on until we left the TH at 6a.

The route is a solid ice sheet right now, no pickets necessary. We used 11 screws. The lower half is about 45-50 degrees and the upper half gets as steep as 70 degrees towards the top. Dinner plates in sections in the upper half. It is about 160m long in total and you can break it up into as many pitches as you would like but 3 is probably the minimum. I'm an ice newbie (this was my first ice lead) and broke it up into 6 pitches for comfort. It spanked me, the conditions make for it to be harder than it usually is (or so I hear). I said "hell no" to the last 30 feet of solid 70 degree water ice and asked our second rope team to throw a rope down. Thanks gods. I held my pee for 4 hours and nearly peed my pants when I got to the top. What a day. I start my calf raises tomorrow.
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