Ascent of Mount Fernow on 2018-09-29

Climber: Jake Robinson

Date:Saturday, September 29, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Fernow
    Elevation:9249 ft / 2819 m

Ascent Trip Report

Day trip from Phelps Creek TH with Aaron and Brad. On the way there we took the route to the 7200' lake W of 7FJ and then down around the buttress to access Gloomy Basin, which was easy and went without issue. The trickiest part was finding the notch to get to the lake from Leroy Basin (the 7600' notch SE of the lake). On the map it looks like an obvious notch but in real life, not so much. Just go directly to where the notch is marked on the map (requires a few class 3 moves) and then the route down to the lake will be obvious.

The rest of the route was easy, crossed Gloomy Basin, scrambled up to the right of a waterfall gully then up the slabs to the S ridge of Fernow and to the cannonhole gully. Through the cannonhole, traverse ledges SE of the summit for a while until a class 3 route opened up that took us directly to the top.

On the way back we decided to take a 'shortcut' up the old Gloomy Glacier route since we could see a snow free line all the way up. It's very loose and nasty, kind of sketchy, not recommended even though it saves you some distance vs. taking the lake route. I'd say in late season just take the lake route both ways, much easier, much safer, less chossy.

Took us just over 12 hours C2C at a moderate pace all day. 17 miles, 8000' gain. Long day with all the rough off-trail travel but doable.
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