Ascent of Golden Horn on 2018-08-17

Climber: Jake Robinson

Date:Friday, August 17, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Golden Horn
    Elevation:8366 ft / 2549 m

Ascent Trip Report

I had no partners for the day and was in the area after finishing up Kimtah and Cosho, so I decided to go solo for Golden Horn and Tower. The approach to Snowy Lakes via the PCT is long (10.5 miles from Rainy Pass TH), but the PCT is such an easy trail that it hardly feels like any work.

From Upper Snowy Lake I headed cross-country through easy open terrain to Golden Horn's SE ridge. This avoids the scree slopes S of the summit. Once on/near the ridge I headed straight for Golden Horn's summit, again easy travel. When the ridge flattened at about 8000' I followed a cairned traverse to below the summit. There were two gullies - I climbed the right one and traversed left just below the top of the gully to get over to the summit block proper. At the summit block I poked around a bit and decided to go up and right, climbing some cracks past a wedged-in boulder (class 4/low5 for about 20 feet). The final move onto the summit was an awkward mantel/beached whale maneuver, maybe 5.3? Cool airy summit, I enjoyed the smoke-free views for a bit, especially of Hardy. Tower also looks quite imposing from this angle. No register. Downclimbing the beached whale move was attention-getting but the rest of the downclimb was simple. There are some good rap slings in place on the summit if you want to rap this section, seems like a 30m rope would work.

I reversed the route for a bit then decided to scree-ski the south slopes - great choice! Made it back to Upper Snowy lake in ~25 minutes from the summit. Continued on to Tower next.
Summary Total Data

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