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Ascent of Glacier Peak on 2015-08-09

Climber: Tynan Ramm-Granberg

Others in Party:Sean Casserly
Jared Bowman
Jacob Denbrook
Sara Crawford
Michael Cooler
Date:Sunday, August 9, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Glacier Peak
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:10520 ft / 3206 m

Ascent Trip Report

Broke camp at 3:45 AM, leaving from the first campsite one reaches after dropping over the ridge from White Pass.

Despite some good beta on the route out of the White Chuck basin, we had some minor route finding issues in the dark. We thought we had circled the base of the glacier when we really we had started up a rock island that is passed on both sides by fingers of the glacier. We backtracked without adding too much time. The photo I’ve attached might help others.

The route out of the basin spits you out with the option of either crossing a permanent snowfield (glacier) or dropping some elevation and crossing the basin that separates you from Glacier Gap. With firm dawn ice, we decided to put on crampons and cross the snow, rather than lose the elevation.

After reaching the Gap, we started up the south ridge, hopping onto the snow for easy walking at the earliest opportunity. Many groups in the previous days had not roped up, but with a fairly inexperienced group of six we decided to go ahead and practice our roped travel (two teams). We crossed the Gerdine Glacier w/o incident, skirting a large area of rock fall. Some small crevasses were clearly visible. The ice was quite bunched up at the junction of the Gerdine and the Cool, but was not a major obstacle. It was smooth sailing up the Cool from there. We left our ropes on the ice and hiked the steep, but well-trailed scree to the summit (no hands necessary), reaching the top around 11:30 AM.

We started back around 12:30, tagging Disappointment Peak on the way down. There was significant ongoing rock fall from Disappointment down onto the Gerdine on our way back, so we skirted even further down-glacier than on the way up. We got back to camp around 5:30. Most of us immediately ate dinner and went to bed, while poor Jared had to hike all the way back to the TH (25+ mile day) in order to be at work the next morning. What a trooper.

This was one of my most rewarding trips to date. I consider myself lucky to have accumulated such a fine posse of climbing friends. We also lucked out on the weather, which had been forecast to be overcast with significant rain showers. We ended up with blue skies and just enough clouds to be photogenic. The forecast might have scared away other groups, as we only encountered one other guy (who had slept on the summit) descending in tennis shoes.
Summary Total Data
    Route:White Chuck / Gerdine / Cool Glaciers
    Quality:8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Tent Camp



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