Ascent of Koktoya Peak on 2018-07-20

Climber: Cody K

Date:Friday, July 20, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Koktoya Peak
    Elevation:5148 ft / 1569 m

Ascent Trip Report

Started at Stuckagain Heights trailhead around 7:30 AM. Hiked up the overgrown trail to Long Lake, then gained the Tanaina ridge and followed it to Temptation. Turned around, ascended East Tanaina again and descended to the valley to get water as it was 70 degrees and there wasn't even a trickle on my route. Climbed back up to Koktoya and summited Williwaw via the northeast ridge. Descended via Williwaw south route and returned to Flattop.

Only a partial GPS route for Koktoya and Williwaw as my phone ran low on batteries.

Approximate stats:
26.9 miles, +11,711, -10,440

Classes (my best guess):
Stuckagain heights to East and West Tanaina: 2nd
East Tanaina descending to ridge below Temptation: 3rd with options for 4th
Climbing Temptation via south ridge: 2nd
Descending East Tanaina to lake, then climbing Koktoya: 2nd and occasional 3rd
Koktoya to Williwaw via NE ridge: 3rd with a couple optional 4th class moves near the top
Descent of Williwaw on standard south route: 3rd
Return to Flattop: 1st

Best parts:
The real gem of this hike is Williwaw NE ridge. The rock is solid and you can almost always walk directly on the ridgetop with excellent views on both sides. There are no loose rock gullies to climb or cross. The scrambling is incredible, exposure is moderate and the ridge itself is gorgeous, with bizarre rock structures jutting out to the sides and a colorful series of grass ledges.

The 3000 ft prominence of Williwaw makes it a great vantage point for the rest of the Chugach!

Worst parts:
Temptation was a last minute addition to this climb. If I did it again, I would hit Temptation from the Arctic Valley side to minimize out-and-back along the south ridge, which has no water and isn't particularly memorable.

Also, the south route up Williwaw is a pile of loose, ankle-smashing rock. A slow and irritating descent.

The climb to the Ballpark also deserves a mention for being a real kick in the shins after a long day.

Bring some lightweight hikers or trail runners with good grip. No need for climbing boots. Also, bring tons of water for the Tanaina/Temptation ridge, and even more if you plan to tag Koktoya without descending to the valley.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:1429 ft / 435 m
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:1429 ft / 435 m
    Distance:3.1 mi / 4.9 km
    Start Trailhead:3719 ft / 1133 m
Descent Statistics
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Cody K
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

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