Ascent of The Tooth on 2017-07-29

Climber: Patty Cokus

Others in Party:Sean Albert
Jared Pearce <11052> Brook
Date:Saturday, July 29, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:The Tooth
    Elevation:5604 ft / 1708 m

Ascent Trip Report

A climb to practice simul-climbing....and some much needed climbing!

Early start, could avoid all snow, I brought both crampons and ice ax but didn't need them. Although I did use my ax on descent when we got on snow to speed things up bs boulders. My approach shoes are not as good in snow so I wanted my axe just in case)

We were rewarded by being first on route and back down to Pineapple pass. A team was holding off on leading up as we finished rapping and pulling the rope. Opted to downclimb around the back same as in as in my opinion safer and faster than rapping from the pass. Someday I'll do this trip with snow on the approach and see what that is like.

I lead with Sean following, then Brook and Jared. I confused myself on a short section (somewhere on p2) and to avoid some exposure first started up a more overhanging spot to the right getting to a point where I would then have to traverse left with no feet and bad hands...decided to bail on this but left a cam in to protect my downclimb...should have communicated this to Sean... who did follow my piece and I am so grateful he is such a good climber and did not fall while finishing what I bailed on. I went up the easier (but more exposed) ramp on left and eventually belayed below the last pitch (I was thinking about Sean possibly on that part...but he had finished it by the time I had him on belay). Brook continued on in an uninterrupted simul to the summit opting for the catwalk. This was his first trip up the Tooth and Jared's first time on the catwalk finish.

I had wanted to finish with the first final pitch I ever did on the Tooth (middle option) but I wanted a belay for that...Sean advocated I could simul it but alas I opted to do the Catwalk instead. Seems the stuck piece I had remembered was gone and Not much gear to be had (or good gear) before for the traverse just as I recalled.

I need a lot more practice both in climbing and simul-climbing. Adds a very different aspect to the mental side....
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Rock Climb
Ascent Statistics
    Route:South Face
Descent Statistics

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