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Ascent of Mount Shuksan on 2017-07-16

Climber: Karthik Krish

Others in Party:Dhruv Garg -- Trip Report or GPS Track
Sanket Patel
Date:Sunday, July 16, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Mount Shuksan
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:9131 ft / 2783 m

Ascent Trip Report

4 of us attempted Mount Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys. Our initial plan was to camp at the bottom of Winnie's slide but the ranger station put an end to that saying all permits for the Price glacier area were gone for the weekend. This meant we had to camp at Lake Ann and endure a long summit day. We left the Lake Ann TH at 9:30 reached Lake Ann by 12:30 and setup camp. We watched folks come down the Chimneys to get a sense of where they start for the rest of the day.

The goal next day was to leave camp by 2:30 AM but the weather turned overnight (despite the forecast calling for clear skies) and there was a steady drizzle which delayed our start by an hour. We left camp at 3:30 AM. The route upto the chimneys was pretty straightforward but there are still some snow patches to cross (but they are kicked in). There is a small moat building between the start of the chimneys (~5300 ft) and the snow which required some tricky jumps.

The first ~300 ft of the chimneys was pretty straightforward with just one class 4 move in mountaineering boots which got us to a nice bivy spot and followed long snow traverse. After some more class 3ish scrambling, we reached the base of "fat mans misery". Climbing this definitely felt like low fifth class climbing in our Nepal Evos. Once we negotiated that, we then had to climb up a steep (~35 degrees) snow slope which put us at ~6400ft. The final 400 ft is pretty straightforward class 3 scrambling that finally got us on to the White Salmon glacier at 6800 ft by 7:30AM. Navigation in the chimneys is not hard, there is a faint trail in most places and you can keep note of the rappel stations along the way.

Once on the glacier, we made quick work of Winnies slide, the Upper Curtis glacier and Hells highway. The route is kicked in pretty well. We reached the base of the summit block by 10:30AM. There was still decent snow in the central gulley so the scrambling involved alternating rock and climbing steep snow (well kicked in). Note that your mountaineering boots will dictate the difficulty of this scramble. In our Nepal Evos, the scrambling felt like low fifth all the way.

We finally reached the summit by 12:15 PM, signed the register and started down by 1:00 PM. We finished the first rappel but then got stuck behind a party of 12 which delayed our descent a lot and therefore, made it down the base of the pyramid only by 5:00 PM (after 4 rappels). We then reached the top of the chimneys only by 7:30PM since a few folks on the team wanted rappels down Winnies slide. It required 4 rappels down the Chimneys before the long snow traverse and then a final one down on to the snow at the start. Got back to camp by 1:30AM, slept for 2 hours before packing up camp and heading out. We finally made it to our cars by 7:30 AM.
Summary Total Data
    Route:Fisher Chimneys
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:1 nights away from roads
    Weather:Low Clouds
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip


 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Karthik Krish
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. Peakbagger.com accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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