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Ascent of The Tooth on 2017-07-08

Climber: Sandeep Kumar

Date:Saturday, July 8, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:The Tooth
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:5604 ft / 1708 m

Ascent Trip Report

Took the summer trail: snow lake trail, followed by the trail towards source lake, and then the climbers trail to pineapple pass. After we left the source lake trail, there was snow on the talus slopes with streams beneath it. The snow cover on the stream was very thin. We went around the snow i.e crossed the stream instead of taking the snow bridges. There were two such streams, and a few more smaller ones, with ok snow on top that we deemed safe to cross. Some party members also punched through the snow on the talus fields. Scrambling around the conical tower to get to pineapple pass was tricky. Once you get to the notch, go around the tower. You will have to descend about 20-30 feet, and it's a little bit exposed here. And then go up the rocks to a nice ledge (pineapple pass). Don't go up too soon (you must go down and around) or you will be a bit off route.

Took us 3 hours to climb. We did in 4 pitches. I led pitch 2 and followed the rest.
Pitch 1: Started from pineapple pass. Anchored on a rock that has slings (past the tree anchor).
Pitch 2: Went diagonally left, then diagonally right (past a dead tree sticking out), and then anchored there with cams, and a tree as backup. There is a dead tree and a live tree. Roots of both don't look too good, but others used just the trees. This pitch had lots of rope drag despite extending all my protections, and having only 3 protections.
Pitch 3: Scramble up to bottom of the head wall, and belay from a tree.
Pitch 4: climb the headwall and belay from a tree about 20 feet below the summit. The next 20 feet is an easy scramble.

Descent:
We were able to descend back to pineapple pass in 3 raps with a single 70m rope.
Rap 1: From top of 4th pitch (tree) to all the way down to a tree with slings which is between the two tree anchors of pitch 2 and pitch 3. The rope reached till about 3 feet above the tree on a very nice ledge.
Rap 2: From the tree with slings to top of pitch 1 (slinged rock).
Rap 3: From top of pitch 1 to all the way to the pineapple pass.

Then we packed our backpacks, and did 2 more rappels on the north side of the pineapple pass to rap to the snow.
then hiked back to car. Total car to car 12 hours.
Click on photo for original larger-size version.
Tooth's east face. We went around the conical tower left of tooth to access the south face (2017-07-08). Photo by Sandeep Kumar.
Click here for larger-size photo.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:2724 ft / 831 m
    Distance:6 mi / 9.7 km
    Route:South Face (5.4)
    Trailhead:Snow lake trailhead  2880 ft / 877 m
    Grade/Class:5.4
    Quality:6 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Rope, Ski Poles
    Weather:Hot, Calm, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Time Up:7 Days 
Descent Statistics
    Time Down:4 Days 



Other Photos

Click on photo for original larger-size version.
Summit selfie at the top of Tooth (2017-07-08). Photo by Sandeep Kumar.
Click here for larger-size photo.



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