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Ascent of Mount Olympus on 2017-05-27

Climber: Eric Gilbertson

Date:Saturday, May 27, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Olympus
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:7969 ft / 2428 m

Ascent Trip Report

We hiked in to Glacier Meadows on Friday evening, and the snow is patchy above Elk Lake, but nothing too bad on the traverse. The ladder on the washout is in good shape, and it was solid 5ft deep snow after the ladder to Glacier Meadows.

A group of 6 guys passed through camp at 1am, and we followed in their footprints after sleeping in til 3am. We were at the top of Snow Dome by sunrise, and saw the other group taking a direct route to the summit, but hesitating at the col. We knew there could be a bergschrund issue there, so instead went through crystal pass and wrapped around the back side and over the false summit to the col just below the West Peak.

Here we saw the team of 6 climbing the east face in several pitches, but it appeared snow went almost all the way to the summit on the north ridge. I led up the north ridge, which was mostly steep icy thin snow but required some rock moves. I placed three cams before reaching the rap anchor, then belayed Katie up to me, and up to the summit. The summit was sketchy ice and definitely required a rope.

We rapped back down and hiked over a good snow bridge across the bergschrund on the direct route. This bridge will probably last a few more weeks, but then people will need to take crystal pass.

We camped out at Glacier Meadows, then hiked out Sunday.

Link to full trip report and pictures.
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