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Ascent of Huckleberry Mountain on 2016-08-27

Climber: Carry Porter

Others in Party:Diana Yuen
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Saturday, August 27, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Huckleberry Mountain
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:6320 ft / 1926 m

Ascent Trip Report

Left the cars at 5:20 on Friday night and made it to Ridge Lake just as the darkness enveloped us. Started hiking just before 7 am the next morning. Instead of going up the "alp slope" on the S. side of Huckleberry as Becky suggests, we hiked around to the east slope of the mountain and ascended the more moderate heather/blueberry slope to the 6000' shoulder. From here, Becky would have you traverse left onto the south face, across a chossy slope and up a loose, messy gully. We opted instead to just go straight up the ridge, which is mostly exposed 3rd class with a few 4th class moves for fun. This put us just above the notch just east of the final summit block. (We did a running belay for this, using almost exclusively slings around trees. In retrospect, we could have done this without a rope.)

To finish the climb, we down climbed into the notch. I belayed my partner up the final pitch. She climbed up to the obvious sloping ledge just below the summit and then went right up a 5th class crack. (Alternately, we could have traversed left 30 ft to finish the climb on loose 4th class rock with significant exposure over the south face.)

Although it had been sunny and warm all morning, we arrived on the summit to wind and increasingly thicker clouds. Within 45 minutes we were enveloped in a white out. It was time to make haste off the mountain. We made use of a good boulder to rap to the notch. From there, we down climbed back to the 6000' shoulder without using the rope (except to belay me on a particularly loose/exposed section at the very end).

TH to camp: 3.5 hours
Camp to base of climb: 3 hours
Climb: 1.75 hours
Descent to base of climb: 1 hour
Base of climb to camp: 2.5 hours
camp to TH: 3 hours
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:6700 ft / 2042 m
    Extra Gain:1680 ft / 512 m
    Route:east ridge
    Trailhead:PCT TH  2980 ft / 908 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Rope, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:1 nights away from roads
    Weather:Drizzle, Pleasant, Breezy, White-out
Ascent Statistics
    Time Up:8 Hours 15 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Time Down:6 Hours 30 Minutes



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